Most rehoming starts with the same few misunderstandings. When people are told Shibas are just like any other dog, the gap between expectation and reality becomes conflict.
This one sounds positive, but it does a disservice to the breed. Shibas are dogs , but they are not “plug-and-play” the way many modern family breeds can be. When people are told a Shiba is “no different,” they often approach ownership with default dog assumptions: off-leash freedom, casual boundaries, hands-on affection, and obedience through repetition.
That mismatch is how Shibas wind up in shelters. It’s also how bite situations happen , not because Shibas are “bad,” but because their signals are missed or overridden. A Shiba that freezes, avoids, or gives a hard stare is communicating. When humans push through those signals (especially kids, visitors, or confident owners who assume all dogs should “tolerate it”), the dog learns that warnings don’t work. Over time, some dogs skip warning and escalate faster.
Treat a Shiba like what they are: a smart, self-directed dog with a strong sense of boundaries and a brain that is always reading the room. When expectations match the breed, most “problems” shrink dramatically.
“Strict” usually means compliance-first living: constant correction, physical control, forced proximity, and punishment when the dog disagrees. With many eager-to-please breeds, that pressure can look like “good behavior” because the dog appeases. With a Shiba, strictness often creates something else entirely.
In a compliance-forced home, a Shiba typically becomes one of three versions of themselves:
Strictness teaches a Shiba that you are not safe. It creates hypervigilance and erodes cooperation. You may still “get” behaviors in the moment, but you pay for it later with handling battles, resource guarding, reactivity, and a dog that can’t settle. Shibas do best with calm structure: clear routines, consent-based handling, and reinforcement that makes sense to them.
Socialization is not “my dog must greet every dog.” Socialization is learning the world is safe , at a pace the dog can handle. Many Shibas do best with neutral, polite exposure, not constant contact.
Here are Shiba-friendly ways to socialize (including when your dog is excited, frustrated, or upset around other dogs):
Socialization done right creates a Shiba who can exist around other dogs without feeling compelled to engage or defend. The goal is stability, not popularity.
Containment is a system. Fences matter , but so do gates, latches, habits, and supervision. A Shiba can get over a 6-foot fence if the setup helps them: stacked objects, a planter, a grill, a storage bin, a tree, a slope, footholds, or even a dug-out launch point. Some will climb chain-link like a ladder. Others go under. And when prey drive flips on, they can become startlingly determined.
This is why we do not recommend leaving Shibas outside alone for long periods. Unsupervised time increases escape risk, boredom, digging, and boundary-testing. It also increases risk from the outside world: loose dogs, wildlife, and human interference. If your Shiba is outside, assume they need supervision, shade, and a plan to bring them back inside.
We also recommend secure walking gear. Many Shibas can back out of standard collars when spooked or determined. A properly fitted martingale collar can add safety without choking. For extra peace of mind, we prefer martingales that can accommodate GPS trackers. We personally use Fi trackers (use this Fi link for $20 off and 1 month of free Fi membership), paired with custom martingale collars from ShopMimiGreen.com built for the Fi system.
We do not leash directly to the martingale collar. Instead, we use a collar to harness safety clip like this. This adds redundancy and prevents neck pressure if a Shiba hits the end of the leash or attempts to back out.
We connect the collar to a two strap harness like this one here. This setup gives you control without relying on the neck and dramatically reduces escape risk.
